1. What should I do first, Exhaust or a 10psi Boost Upgrade?

2. Which should I do first, Extractors or High Ratio Rocker Upgrade?

3. When is the best time to do exhaust and extractor upgrades?

4. Why buy a Supercharged V6 instead of a Gen III V8 or WRX?

5. Will increasing the boost affect my fuel economy?

6. How hard is it to remove the original pulley from the supercharger?

7. Can I return my car to standard if need be?

8. Will I have to retune my ECU after every modification?

9. How much boost can I run?

10. Will the Boost and Rocker work on a CV6 Monaro or HSV XU6?

11. Should I run water injection?

12. Could I possibly damage my engine by increasing the boost from 6psi to 10psi?

13. What about intercooling?

14. Why can my mate's car run more boost than mine?

15. Will I have to change my injectors or fuel pump when I do modifications to my engine?

16. How long will it take for my order to arrive?

17. Do you ship to every state in Australia ?

18. Why do I need to run 98+RON Premium Unleaded Petrol?

19. What are FIT's Limited Edition Products and how do I get them?

20. Why Choose FIT for my Supercharged V6 Performance Parts

21. I've heard other Companies saying FIT's Parts are Secondary

22. Can I convert my standard Ecotec engine to Supercharged by simply adding a second-hand Eaton M90 Supercharger?

23. Does FIT sell supercharged V6 engines?

24. What's involved in fitting a Holden or Buick S/C V6 to my Commodore?

25. Does FIT perform these types of engine conversions?

1. Qu: What should I do first, Exhaust or a 10psi Boost Upgrade?
Ans: We are often asked the question:

"Which modification should I do first - Exhaust or Boost"?

The Scientific Response is:

"Whichever gives you the most Performance per Dollar spent"

... more colloquially termed the "Best-Bang-for-your-Buck"!!

The Traditional Performance Scene advises to start the modification process with upgrading Extractors and Exhaust, however on a Supercharged V6 we have found this is not such a good idea.

With only 6psi worth of boost from the factory, upgrading the exhaust will result in a Loss of Manifold Boost Pressure which results in a Loss in Bottom End Torque and Throttle Responsiveness Down Low for Only Mild Gains up top of around 7kW.

Typically Exhaust Upgrades work by increasing the amount of potential flow of exhaust gases. At low RPM exhaust gases aren't maxing out the original exhaust system so upgrading to a bigger exhaust will not result in and improvement in this are. In fact in all the Testing and Report Feedback we have found it leads to a Loss in Bottom End Torque which makes the car less responsive a more sluggish off the line.

The 10psi Boost Upgrade is by far the Better and More Impressive Modification to do first. The results from the Boost Upgrade by far Exceed simple exhaust upgrades both in areas of improved Power, Torque and Acceleration with No Loss in fuel economy or Bottom End Throttle Response.

The 10psi Boost Upgrade usually results in 10-20kW gain in Power and 20-30Nm gain in Torque, with Big Improvements to Throttle Response and drivability throughout the rev range. It is therefore concluded, by far the best modification to do first.

Traditional Case Scenario: Most are advised by their local Exhaust Shop to spend all their money on Exhaust and Extractors which generally cost between $1250 and $1850 fitted. There is no real problem with this, other than the fact it doesn't result in vastly improved Power and Torque and therefore doesn't inspire the owner to proceed much further in the modification process if this is all they can expect.

After spending all their money on Extractors and Exhaust most owners then don't have enough left over for Boost and Rockers, around $1390, which is where the real gains are to be experienced.

Without making it to the stage of Boost and Rockers they haven't really experienced the Full Fun and Potential of the Super6.

We see this scenario occurring all too often, and therefore are trying to send out the message and hope it reaches you in time.

"The 1st Best Modification for your Super6 is 10psi Boost Upgrade" !!

NB: This is not to say that upgrading your exhaust system is a bad idea, just that the 1st Best Modification you should be looking at to give much improved Power, Torque, Throttle Response and Acceleration is the 10psi Boost Upgrade. After you have done the Boost Upgrade you should proceed to Rockers or Exhaust.

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2. Qu: Which should I do first, Extractors or High Ratio Rocker Upgrade?
Ans: We are often asked "which modification should I do first" - Extractors or Rocker Upgrade. For the same reasons as mentioned above, the Extractor Upgrade does not give as much improved Power, Torque and Throttle response as expected and therefore does not give much satisfaction for the dollars spent on this upgrade alone. Typically Extractors cost around $650 fitted, and give around 7kW gain.

Where the truly impressive gains are to be made is with our FIT 1.9:1 High Ratio Roller Rocker Arms. They give a genuine 10-20kW Increase in power and around 10-20Nm Improvement in Torque. What is most impressive is the Mid-Range Punch and Top-End Power Improvements which liven up the factory V6's typical reluctance to rev. Typically most Supercharged and Ecotec V6's perform well up to around 3000rpm, and then they start to nose over. The Upgrade to FIT's 1.9 High Lift Rockers breathes new life into the mid range and top end rev-ability power producing potential.

Our FIT 1.9:1 Rockers have never failed to impress even the most sceptical V6 Enthusiast. They have recently being voted Australia's Best Performing Rocker for V6 Commodores by a significant margin.

Do yourself the favour before you consider going ahead with your possible extractor purchase; experience the Improvement that the FIT 1.9:1 High Ratio Rockers give and you will never look back.

It is for the above reasons we always recommend:
"1st Best Modification": 10psi Boost Upgrade
"2nd Best Modification": 1.9:1 High Ratio Roller Rockers

Check out the following dyno extract from our new "FIT Calais Mule" - remember this car only started of with 152rwhp.

It now has 191.3rwhp with 10psi Boost upgrade, 1.9 High Ratio Rockers, 98+RON Premium Fuel and completely stock Exhaust and stock Extractors. That's an Increase of almost 40rwhp!

NB: This is not to say that upgrading to Extractors is a bad idea, just that the 2nd Best Modification you should be looking at to give much improved Power, Torque, Throttle Response and Acceleration is the FIT 1.9: High Ratio Rocker Arms. After you have done the Rocker Upgrade you should proceed to Exhaust and Extractors.

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3. Qu: When is the best time to do exhaust and extractor upgrades?
Ans: Following on from the above discussions concerning Exhaust and Extractors, we sense you asking, when should I consider doing Exhaust and Extractor Upgrades ?

By process of elimination it would be best to do them after the 10psi Boost Upgrade and 1.9:1 High Ratio Rockers. Although it doesn't need to be done straight away this would be the best time to look at upgrading your exhaust system components.

The bonus about proceeding in the above sequence of upgrades, is if you don't have enough money left over to do the exhaust and extractors, it doesn't really matter as you have already got the two best performing modifications installed, and you can continue to enjoy them until you are able to afford the Exhaust and Extractors. There is absolutely no harm possible to the engine leaving it in this state until you are able to proceed to the next stage.

If you were to have done Extractors and Exhaust first and had run out of money to do the Boost and Rocker components, there really isn't much satisfaction or enjoyment from driving the car around in this state as the minimal boost pressure and reluctancy to rev still makes the car a little dull to drive..

When you are able to afford the Boost, Rockers, Exhaust and Extractors then you will unleash the full potential of the combination of these upgrades as they all work hand-in-hand to amplify the gains that you would have received from these products individually.

The Modification Order Priority List should look something like this:

1. 10psi Boost upgrade
2. 1.9:1 High Ratio Rocker upgrade
3. Cat Back Exhaust Upgrade
4. Extractor Upgrade

We hope this will help most of you to enjoy the full potential of the Supercharged V6 by completing the modifications in order of which give the most improvement and driving satisfaction first.

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4. Qu: Why buy a Supercharged V6 instead of a Gen III V8 or WRX?
Ans: After countless racing events and participation in ¼ mile racing it has become apparent that a modified Supercharged V6 will on almost all occasions beat a Gen III V8 and WRX all the way till 3/4 track which then they slowly start to creep up.

This reinforces the claim that "Traffic Light to Traffic Light" a modified Supercharged V6 will always take out a Gen III V8.

With a variety of different modifications to the Supercharged V6's, such as Boost, Rockers, Exhaust, they will consistently pull 14.3's and 14'4's down the ¼ mile at close to 95mph.

The Gen III's typically pull 14.5's to 14.2's and the WRX's 14.7's to 14.4's depending on take-off.

Off the line to ½ track the Supercharged V6's will be almost 4 - 5 car lengths in front!! They just scream away from the start to leave them well behind, and they have to spend the rest of the race trying to catch up.

So conclusively, if you want a car that sprints away from traffic lights and will win virtually any street battle then the Supercharged V6 is definitely a tractable contender. With the bulk of power being available right off the line from low rpm it makes the Supercharged V6 sprint rapidly to get a good couple of car lengths in front of your worthy competitor.

Driving around on light throttle the power is always on tap and the acceleration from the abundance of Torque makes them a very responsive car to drive around town. A Gen III V8 and even a WRX are both very doughy and sluggish until they reach 3,500rpm at which then they start to move. This makes them quite uninspiring to drive around at low rpm and low cruising speeds, where as the Supercharged V6 has a bulk amount of Power Delivery in this area.

Many who have driven a modified Supercharged V6 and then hop into a Gen III V8 are quite unimpressed as the lag of power until higher in the rpm zone, is quite uninspiring to the regular Super6 driver.

We find many owners of Gen III's V8's now steering away from the V8 Scene and heading over to the Supercharged V6 establishment due to the huge amount of high performance components now available and the awesome streetability of power and torque being available from very low rpms. In return Fuel Economy is better, and Insurance is cheaper, plus there have been no known issues to date, where as there have been many oil consumption and piston knock issues with the Gen III's.

So why buy a Supercharged V6?

If you want a car that's very responsive, inspiring to drive and easy to modify whilst still maintaining excellent reliability then the Supercharged V6 is definitely the best weapon of choice!!

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5. Qu: Will increasing the boost affect my fuel economy?
Ans: The standard Supercharged V6 engine runs an air-bypass valve located near the inlet duct of the supercharger. This was designed primarily to improve fuel economy and idle quality for light throttle applications. With our boost pulley kit the functionality of this bypass valve is retained, meaning that light throttle applications during cruising will still be drawing air through this bypass valve and not using the increased boost at all. It is only when you stomp on it, or use full throttle that it will use more fuel, which is basically the situation with any performance increase. If you drive the car cruising around and are not always jamming the throttle to the floor you will be running on the supercharger air-bypass valve and in fact not use any more fuel than previously with standard boost.

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6. Qu: How hard is it to remove the original pulley from the supercharger?
Ans: It is extremely difficult if you do not have the right tooling. The manufacturer of the supercharger, EATON, used over 20 tonnes of force to press the pulley onto the shaft. This was to deter aftermarket performance shops and vehicle owners from removing it and swapping it for a smaller one to increase boost. The bolt on the front of your supercharger pulley is merely cosmetic. The hold for the pulley is achieved via the interference fit of the pulley being pressed firmly onto the shaft. For this reason some aftermarket workshops have devised a replacement snout to get over the hurdle of trying to remove the original pulley. Whilst this achieves the same end result it involves removing the supercharger from the engine (which not a lot of people want to do to their brand new car) and is more expensive (around approx. $1,500), plus it takes 4-6 hours for the process to be completed.

It has only been through a lot of trial and effort that we have devised special heavy duty tooling that allows us to remove the original pulley without having to remove the supercharger from the engine. Our proven process takes only 1 hour to remove the factory pulley and refit the new modular hub pulley system. It works flawlessly every time without damage to the supercharger bearings, seals or shaft. It can be done by DIY'ers or general mechanics, as it comes with very complete, concise instructions with pictures.

Traditional types of claw pullers, even the most expensive and heavy duty ones won't even come close to removing the original pulley.

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7. Qu: Can I return my car to standard if need be?
Ans: Yes for sure, replacement is a reversal of removal procedure.

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8. Qu: Will I have to retune my ECU after every modification?
Ans: Not necessarily although if you are able to it is advisable. Many of our clients run standard mapping with boost and exhaust upgrades, obviously more gains will be realised if engine management re-mapping is undertaken. Larger changes such as boost, extractors, exhaust, high ratio roller rockers, and cooler thermostat should warrant engine management remapping.

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9. Qu: How much boost can I run?
Ans: We have run as much as 18psi in testing, however this is not recommended as it is beyond the efficiency point of the supercharger. Most of our clients choose the 10 psi pulley as this is a good all rounder. It can be used on the street with premium unleaded, and not too much fuss. Going beyond this will require exhaust and extractors, 1.9:1 ratio rockers, and engine management remapping. We have seen a number of clients swap pulleys solely for ¼ mile testing and then change back to 10psi for the street use, which is the best way to get the best of both worlds.

Maximum safe level for boost is 14psi, which is basically 1bar. We strongly recommend to run premium unleaded, preferably 98+RON, and octane booster if running more than 12psi boost. Whilst we are just trying to provide guidelines we leave the rest up to you.

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10. Qu: Will the Boost and Rocker work on a CV6 Monaro or HSV XU6?
Ans: Yes for sure, they all run exactly the same motor as the regular Commodores, Berlina's, Calais, Statesman and Caprice. Models of factory supercharged V6's started in 1997 with the VS Commodore, Berlina's, Calais, Statesman and Caprice. Then followed in late 1998 with the VT Commodore, Berlina, Calais, Statesman and Caprice. Next was the VX in 2001 with again Commodore, Berlina, Calais, Statesman and Caprice.

The latest offering is the sharp looking VY Commodore, Berlina, Calais, Statesman and Caprice. In the midst of all this came the Monaro in 2001 available in CV6 format. The most popular amongst the V6 Supercharged cult was the 'S' Pac with well alloy wheels and spoilers as standard, HSV XU6 and of coarse again the CV6 Monaro. Judging from the number of sales and enquiries there also appears to be a huge number of Calais, Statesmans and Caprices sold with the Super 6 sold as standard.

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11. Qu: Should I run water injection?
Ans: The use of water injection has always been a much debated issue. Some find it beneficial when running high boost levels as the water helps to suppress detonation by cooling the intake charge and lessening the fuels volatility to pre-ignite. Others, who aren't believers say that the gains made from cooler intake charge are offset by the parasitic power loss associated with displacing the air/fuel ratio. We feel the use of water injection has proven useful in certain cases to assist in calming the onset of detonation, but can be potentially detrimental to horsepower if too much water is used.

A brief word of caution!! If you are going to run water injection be careful about the position of the misting nozzle as spraying water too close to the rotors may end up causing localised pitting and delamination of the rotor coating.

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12. Qu: Could I possibly damage my engine by increasing the boost from 6psi to 10psi?
Ans: No. Lucky for you, your Supercharged vehicle is equipped with one of the most sophisticated engine management computers in the world. Capable of many thousands of calculations per second. From the factory your car has been fitted with not one, but two knock sensors. These twin knock sensors are mounted on each bank of cylinders and communicate continuously with the engine management computer to relay any engine noises that sound like detonation. Depending on the severity and amplitude of the noise the engine management compensates via fuel and timing changes to safeguard against harmful detonation. So quickly that you may never hear the incidence of detonation.

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13. Qu: What about intercooling?
Ans: Intercooling the Commodore Supercharged V6 is not an easy task. Not necessarily in theory, but in practical engineering. The most opportune type of intercooler set-up would be to sandwich an intercooler core between the supercharger and the manifold. Run water through it, which is then recirculated by an additional front mounted radiator, and you'll have what's commonly known as a water-to-air intercooler. It's not new, and in fact has been around in other applications for more than 30 years.

The trouble is getting a decent sized water intercooler core efficient enough to remove bulk heat of 200*C+ generated by the M90 from the intake charge and still fit into the standard engine bay. Unfortunately, the core thickness required to achieve this result would need to be a minimum of 2½". Adding another 2½" of height to the supercharger in the standard V6 Commodore engine bayisn't possible as there just isn't enough bonnet clearance.

It is for this reason we that we have now designed our own Air-to-Air Intercooler. For more information please refer to the full specifications on our Products page.

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14. Qu: Why can my mate's car run more boost than mine?
Ans: This is quite a complex issue, but can be answered broadly by stating it's due to a number of internal as well as external factors relating to your engines susceptibility towards detonation. This is a problem not only common to the supercharged v6's but any motor with forced induction. The amount of boost your engine can run is limited by the engine's tendency to detonate at a given level of load, fuel and timing. Usually adding more fuel or reducing the amount of timing can suppress detonation. But there comes a point where reducing the timing or adding more fuel becomes detrimental to power output. So why is it that two identical motors will behave differently when it comes to accepting extra boost?

Here's a quick checklist to help highlight some of the factors that allows some engine to run more boost than others.

• Fuel Octane: The level of octane in fuel is one of the number one determinants of whether the engine will detonate. Always make sure you run the highest grade of fuel available in your location. Stick to Premium, preferably 98+RON Octane Rating, and don't mix and match fuels. You must run premium all the time for it to be effective. Putting half a tank of premium and half a tank of regular unleaded will dilute the octane rating downwards sharply.
• Temperature: With the mention of temperature there are three broad sub-categories: Engine Temperature, Intake Air Temperature and Ambient or Climate Air Temperature. Broadly speaking the cooler the temperature the lesser the tendency for the engine to detonate. Hotter engine and inlet temperatures lead to a greater susceptibility for detonation. The best way to try and combat this is to either make the engine run cooler or grab cooler air for the engine to ingest. On a warm day in the middle of summer in hotter regions of Australia it may be hard to combat this. In hotter times of the year we recommend to run less boost (10psi max).
• Exhaust: The more restrictive an exhaust the more tendency for detonation as not all of the burnt fuel and air can be expelled causing heat to become congested in the cylinder and exhaust valve. The opposite effect can happen if the exhaust is freed up too much and fuel mixtures run on the lean-side.
• Localised Hot Spots: As we mentioned briefly hot temperatures increase the tendency for detonation to occur. Some engines, when assembled, have an overlap of head gasket material which overhangs into the cylinder and 'glows' when temps get extreme under heavy load. This glow causes the fuel to pre-ignite, aggravating the incidence of detonation. The same can happen with spark plugs, cylinder head castings or valve tips that glow when cylinder temps climb.
• Engine Management: Depending on how many and what types of modification you have made, the engine management's ability to compensate for the changes may also play a vital part in determining whether the engine will detonate at a given level of boost. The engine management computer can be remapped to compensate for activity that may invoke detonation.

We've seen some engines run between 12 and 14 psi during winter, with great results because the cooler winter air helps to suppress detonation, but come summer they seem to suffer. This is quite common for all types of turbocharged or supercharged engines. It all depends on what modifications have been done to the engine and how it reacts to the amount of boost being forced into the cylinders. There are no set rules and it really is just a case of trying and seeing how it goes. The best way to know how much boost your engine will handle is to try it on a chassis dyno under supervised conditions. Alternatively, if you know what you're looking and listening for, you can just do your own testing. If you find that you can't run big boost all the time just use the higher boost pulleys on special occasions like ¼ mile racing events or dyno shoot-out competitions to give you car that extra edge.

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15. Qu: Will I have to change my injectors or fuel pump when I do modifications to my engine?
Ans: Unless if you are generating over 400hp there is absolutely no need to upgrade the stock items. The factory supercharged engine is equipped with decent sized injectors (36lb/hour) and a two speed fuel pump that raises pressure according to demand. The only time that we would recommend to change the injectors, fuel pump or pressure regulator is if you have a fault with any of the components. The best way to check how your fuel system is coping is to run it up on a dyno. Check the air/fuel ratio being outputted at full load throughout the rpm range. The air/fuel ratio should never exceed 13:1 at full load. Anywhere above this indicates a dangerously lean condition that should be rectified by re-mapping the engine management system. An operator with thorough knowledge of Delco operating software would be beneficial as he can make the appropriate changes.

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16. Qu: How long will it take for my order to arrive?
Ans: If you are in the metro area of your state it will arrive within two days. Allow an extra day for out of metro areas.

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17. Qu: Do you ship to every state in Australia ?
Ans: Yes for sure, we ship daily to all destinations

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18. Qu: Why do I need to run 98+RON Premium Unleaded Petrol?
Ans: You may not realise it, but the Holden Supercharged V6 you are driving is controlled by one of the most sophisticated and intelligent engine management systems on the planet. It has an array of control measures and fail-safes that will make sure the engine will never be harmed by poor quality fuels, or the most abusive driving.

An example of this can be seen if you were to hold your gear lever in 1st and rev it right out. You'll find you won't even hit 5600rpm before the factory engine management system changes the gear automatically to 2nd. Even if this automatic intervention didn't happen, the engine management will limit engine rpm to 5750 before cutting fuel and timing. If the engine overheats, it will dramatically reduce timing and dump in a whole heap of fuel to compensate. At the same time it will also open the boost control solenoid for the bypass valve and dump off a whole heap of boost. If it gets even worse it will shut down certain parameters and go into "Limp Home Mode", which will give zero performance, but will allow you to drive it home.

It becomes plainly obvious that the computer has a lot of control over how much performance you will obtain from your engine. This is why it is so imperative that you always run 98+RON Premium Petrol Always especially with a boost upgrade!! Even with standard boost, Holden recommends Premium Unleaded Petrol - it's written in the owner's manual and even on the petrol cap. With standard boost of 5 - 6psi the engine tuning is optimised to run on Premium fuel.

If you use regular unleaded fuel, the car will still drive and behave normally, but performance will be dramatically reduced. This is due to the sophisticated engine management system reducing timing due to what's termed "Knock Retard". This isn't true "knock" or "pinging" as most would have heard from discussions in magazines and from racer talk. "Knock Retard" is triggered at the point before detonation when the engine management picks up from one or both of its twin knock sensors which are mounted in the cylinder block.

The "Knock Sensors" are piezo electric transducers that listen out for a specific frequency of engine noise that is closely related to detonation or pinging. Even though it may not actually be true detonation that these sensors are picking up, engine timing will be retarded if noise that is classified as detonation or "knock" is present. The term "Knock Retard Attack Factor" is the co-efficient of knock intensity that the engine management is receiving from the knock sensors and then subsequently used as a parameter in the calculation of ignition timing retard.

Sometimes this may actually be true knock, but most of the time it isn't. It's just the engine management system getting "over-protective" about engine safety. These sensors are set overly sensitive and therefore performance is critically reliant on fuel octane and quality. For small amounts of "Knock Retard" the engine management may only reduce timing by 2 or 4 degrees.

" For large amounts of "Knock Retard" the engine management may remove as much as 16 degrees timing " !!

To put this into perspective, for every 1 degree of retarded timing your engine will loses approximately 10hp !! Imagine the engine management receiving signals of heavy "knock" and retarding timing by 4 - 6 degrees or more.

That's 4 - 6 x 10hp, which is around 40 - 60 hp lost through knock retard !!

This is exactly what you can see from the attached image of a dyno report from a customer's vehicle where he wasn't running true 98+RON Premium Fuel. This car was fitted with nothing else but a boost upgrade. We were fitting rockers as part of our rocker evaluation program. The owner just came straight in, drove it on the dyno, pulled a measly 153 rwhp. We immediately knew there was something wrong with this equation, and determined that the fuel was not good 98+RON premium. Upon questioning the owner he mentioned he had been using 95RON Premium, which sort of made sense of the result.

We continued with our rocker evaluation program and fitted the FIT 1.9:1 High ratio Roller Rockers in about 1 ½ hours. We also removed the battery terminal and replaced it after 10 mins to re-set the computer's self learn fuel and timing maps. We asked the owner to go for a drive and get some octane booster from the local service station and pour it in the tank before he drove back.

He drove it straight back on the dyno and ... hey presto ... another 43rwhp !!

Whilst a fair amount was attributed to the rocker upgrade and existing boost upgrade another fair role was played by the Octane Booster. The power improvement over what the owner drove in with was absolutely incredible

What we are trying to illustrate is that while our products do give great increases in power, Fuel Octane plays a major in harnessing that power. Octane keeps these engines from bouncing off the knock sensors. We had gained a lot of power attributed to the boost and rocker upgrades and just a bottle of octane booster, (this car is also in dire need of a exhaust upgrade). Over the next week or so of driving with a strict diet of BP 98+RON Ultimate petrol this car would probably gain another 10rwhp over and above the huge improvement it has already gained.

Summary:

We cannot stress enough the importance of good quality fuel for supercharged V6 engines. The end performance is so closely determined by the level of octane in the fuel they are ingesting. There is no use in using premium unleaded only every second tank full. If you are going to run premium, run the best 98+RON you can find, preferably BP Ultimate, and run it all the time. By doing this you will keep the octane rating of the fuel in your tank at its optimum. Even skimping on premium fuel once or twice will dilute the octane rating dramatically and will take a couple of tankfuls to recover. Do not be under the assumption that putting $10 worth every now and then will suffice. The factory computer will run the engine at its optimum so long as it doesn't detect any 'knock'. If 'knock' is detected the engine management will quickly reduce the amount of timing to compensate, resulting in decreased power and performance. Even try using octane boosters in the recommended dosage if knock is detected, or if you are going to run higher levels of boost.

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19. Qu: What are FIT's Limited Edition Products and how do I get them?
Ans:Limited Edition Products an exclusive range of products to a select few customers who are looking for more than just our popular range of performance enhancing bolt ons. To get in, you will need to register your details. As a part of our continuing efforts to provide better products and better customer service, certain information has been made available on our website. This area is secured and logged to keep the information provided safeguarded. In doing this, we aim to better utilise everyone’s time by making available our knowledge without the need to call, email or wait for us to contact you.

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20. Qu: Why Choose FIT for my Supercharged V6 Performance Parts
FIT are the only Supercharged V6 Specialists in Australia. Other companies dabble in V6's here and there with a couple of products but none of the offer a complete range of upgrades that integrate together to build a complete and reliable power package.

FIT have been providing performance Upgrades for V6's for more than 7years now and have a 100% Track Record of Reliability and VIP Customer Service.

We also Hold Titles for the Fastest M90 L67's Australia.

FIT's Components are being used on all of Australia's Fastest and Most Powerful Supercharged V6's. Our Strong Committment to Innovation, Research and Development keeps us well out in front of the competition leaving them struggling to catch up.

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21. Qu: I've heard other Companies saying FIT's Parts are Secondary

This is an obvious tactic by competitors trying to defame us. It is very common in the performance industry and whilst FIT refrain from bagging oher competitors products, it seems many do it to us.

Why do they do this ? You may Ask ...

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22. Qu: Can I convert my standard Ecotec engine to Supercharged by simply adding a second-hand Eaton M90 Supercharger?
Ans: We get this question quite a lot, and while we don't like to discourage your enthusiasm to supercharge your standard Ecotec motor, we would still however advise against it. Before we get into the technicalities of it all, we'll share this precedent with you. The main reasons being relating to cost, but the other related to performance. Here's a summary:

1. The heads and manifold are different, so you will need to purchase and fit them. Heads and manifold, if you can even get them, will be around $2,000.
2. The injectors and fuel rails are different, so will need to purchase them, at a cost of approximately $950.
3. Need a bigger fuel pump, and/or possible rising rate fuel pressure regulator, cost of approximately $600.
4. Bottom harmonic balancer is different, and is counterweighted so even changing it to the proper supercharged one will probably upset balance of engine. Plus you will need the pulleys and belt to go with the motor. Cost approximately $700.
5. Computer/chip is different, so you will need to get it remapped. Cost approximately $750.
6. Cam is different, pistons are different, rods are different, crank is different. Compression is too high, so even if you did do all of the above you could never get any serious boost into it to make it go like a proper supercharged one.
7. And on top of all this you still need to factor in the cost of the supercharger itself at approximately $1,500 - $2,000 they ain't cheap.
8. Add some estimate for labour allow approximately $1,500 - $2,000.
9. Total: $8,000 - $9,000 and remember you are still going to be behind the eight ball because it won't go like a proper supercharged one.

We have heard of a few guys that have done this conversion successfully, so long as they remain at a conservative 6 - 7psi boost level, and treat it well, it should last forever. However, if you try to increase boost pressure to much you may run into serious problems. We have now received a lot of feedback from the forums and emails pertaining to the fact that a lot of the standard Ecotec owners who have attempted this type of conversion have killed their motors and are now left with no motor and a useless pile of supercharger components. All the news is not pessimistic though as we have a number of feasible solutions: If you really, really want to go supercharged and wont settle for anything less here are a number of options:

1. Speak to Castlemaine Rod Shop (CRS), they have a cheap alternative at around $1,500 - $2,000 where they use a Toyota supercharger. It won't ever go as good as a proper factory supercharged one, but they do offer considerable improvements depending on how much boost you run.
2. Speak to CAPA Performance, they have a range of aftermarket bolt on kits that might be up your alley. Bear in mind they are usually of centrifugal type where boost builds up as engine revs build up, which is different to the factory supercharged ones where you have full boost whenever you want it. These centrifugal type ones can go quite well, especially if you put an intercooler on it, but don't expect any change out of about $7,000 - $9,000
3. If you really want to go ahead with supercharging your standard Ecotec, go ahead, but be weary of what we have briefed you upon.
4. Purchase a proper supercharged engine from the wreckers (make sure it's in good nick, or comes with a warranty, be weary of ones that leak oil, look like they've had a hard life, fire damaged, or are known to have high kms).
   Don't pay any more than about $5,500 for one as the other option is to purchase a brand new one from Holden, warranty and all, delivered to your door, in a crate, never even started for $6500 !!

Unless if you are really, really, really attached to your ride, the other and maybe best option would be to sell yours and purchase and already factory supercharged one " !! We like this option the best as it is a minimum of fuss. It's all there !! All you have to do is drive it !! It's done properly, no insurance hassles, no registration/pit inspection worries, transmission is already up to the task, suspensions all done, and to top it off it may be a better car than the one you had. You can probably trade up to a factory supercharged one for as little as $2,000, or as much as $15,000, depending on what you have to trade with and what you're trading up to, and what sort of deal you can work out in between. All you have to do is the supercharger boost upgrade at $695 and it'll go like a rocket !! Sometimes it pays to have a good think and do some homework before you jump into something you might regret. Either way you decide we are here to support you all the way, and wish for the best in your quest for supercharged supremacy.

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23. Qu: Does FIT sell supercharged V6 engines?
Ans: We have been trying to organise a regular supply of engines, at the right price, but this is proving to be a difficult task. They are a very rare engine to find on the second-hand market, wreckers and so on. We could purchase them trade from Holden then re-sell them, but we would have to mark them up, which would make this infeasible as most of you could go to Holden direct and purchase them for the same price.

For the moment we do not sell supercharged engines, but we are still trying to find sources that can supply and sell them to us at the right price. We estimate this make take a while ... months/years ? We will make notification on the site if and when we have them available.

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24. Qu: What's involved in fitting a Holden or Buick S/C V6 to my Commodore?
Ans: This is not an easy question to answer as it depends on so many variables, but we have summarised a few to help you get started:

1. You may need to change the sump to match the model of Commodore you are putting it into
2. You may need to upgrade your fuel pump and add rising rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
3. You may need to purchase a matching wiring harness
4. You may need your computer chip re-programmed or aftermarket computer
5. You may need to move/alter components in your engine bay to fit the engine in
6. You may need to strengthen your gear box

With careful planning and correct budget allocation the conversion will be a certain possibility and the end result will certainly be worth it. We wish you the best in your quest for supercharged supremacy.

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25. Qu: Does FIT perform these types of engine conversions?
Ans: FIT is predominantly a wholesale product development company who occasionally involves itself in the fitting of components for further R&D feedback and statistics. FIT are flat out designing and promoting new and existing products and therefore are limited in resources for such types of conversions. This is an area we would like to be involved in, but due to time and budget constraints, we simply do not have the resources to be involved in conversions. We do come across individuals in the field who have performed successful conversions and have found the information mentioned in Qu: 17 from them. We hope it helps in your engine conversion and planning.

If you phone around a few performance based mechanical shops in your area you will be sure to come across someone who will be willing to take on the challenge. With careful planning and correct budget allocation the conversion will be a certain possibility and the end result will certainly be worth it. We wish you the best in your quest for supercharged supremacy.

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